Munich and Dachau in a Day

Since I am planning on 3 months in Italy and have only a few weekends free, I have to make the most out of my time here. I don't know really what to see and do, so I took the easy way out ... let someone else plan it for me. On base, there is a travel agency called ITT. I don't know what it stands for, but they have one at every base. They plan weekend trips and all I have to do is pay and show up. Sort of. Anyway, my first free weekend after starting work, they had a trip to Munich and Dachau. All in one day on a Saturday. OK, sounds good. I would still have Sunday to figure out something if I wanted.

All ITT trips are on bus, so it's up and outta there early ... like 0030 early. I had a blanket from my room and my travel pillow, and I packed snacks. Ready, set, go. Almost as soon as we were off base, I was sleeping away. Somewhere around 0630 near the German (or was it Austrian?) border, we stopped for breakfast at a roadside gas station/rest area/convenience store/restaurant. I wish I had taken pictures because it is different that back home. I have come to learn these places are quite common with buffet stations and coffee stations and fresh squeezed juice and hot bars and cold bars. It was a lot to figure out and I am getting the hang of Italian, not yet German. Didn't know how to ask if they had soy milk or if anything was vegan. So, coffee without milk for me ... lots of sugar. The alps are beautiful. Good thing I bought a heavier coat, it's cold here.

Back to sleep and next stop Munich. We arrived somewhere around 10 AM. Our tour escort (not a guide) gave us some very vague information. "Here is an old gate to the city, You can walk here." "There is a story about the church and the architect making a deal with the devil, so look at the windows, there is something about them." That's about the extent of it. I guess I expected to learn a little bit even though I knew there wasn't an "actual" tour. We were given a map that had been photocopied multiple times and a time to show up back at the bus in about 3 1/2 hours.

We were dropped off in front of the National Theater,

which is in a square with the Residenz. Some of the people on the tour knew the escort, who apparently knew the city and asked to walk around with her. I asked if I could join them since I was on my own. So, we walked past high end shopping and found ourselves in Marienplatz.

I stopped for a picture and they were gone. So, I'm on my own. That's OK I'll figure it out. Later in the day I found a guidebook. Also, towards the end of my day, I found a hop-on hop-off bus stop. I could have hopped on at the beginning and learned some interesting facts.

I checked the map and found the direction for the church that is somehow mysterious. The door does not look like a church with heavy bronze. It just seemed so cold and hard and made me think of German efficiency and sternness.

The church was lovely inside.

I looked at the windows, but didn't notice anything different about them. Apparently, the story goes, the architect prayed for funding to complete the church. The devil answered and funding was provided; however, the deal was that there needed to be a space of pure darkness. At some corner of the church, there are no windows and absolute darkness. I didn't see this because I didn't know what I was looking for. Or maybe, that's at the Cathedral of Our Lady (which I didn't see except for the towers). There is also a legend that the footprint at the entrance to the Cathedral is that of the Devil and the mausoleum is pure black. Is that the darkness? I'm not really sure because I am piecing things together from guidebooks and other people's memories later. But, still an interesting story. The main figure is St. Michael fighting Evil. Interesting.

By the way ... bronze catfish? 

I made it back to Marienplatz and did a little eavesdropping on tours. I was lucky enough to see the glockenspiel "show" at 1100. Boy, the performance is long. Apparently one level is the story of a wedding among Bavarian royalty and the other is celebration of the end of the plague. 43 bells and 32 bronze figures moving. That's a lot of mechanical activity.

I also overheard some American tourists talking about climbing the tower of St. Peter's Cathedral. Hmm,,, ok for 2 euro, why not?

From here I had amazing view of the city including the towers of the Cathedral.

View over St.> Peter's and the Old Town Hall

The gothic building in the square hosts the New Town Hall, finished in 1909, and the other side of the square holds the Old Town Hall which was completely restored after World War II.

From here I wandered a bit and admit, I got a bit lost, but not for long. I did find myself in the Jewish section

and I did manage to find the Isator Gate, intact since the 14th century. 

And then I got hungry, so I managed to work my way to the Market thinking I could find some fruit to snack on. When what to my wondrous eyes did appear? Vegan? on the sign? Whoah, Nelly. This was a most amazing seasoned (but cold) portabello with savory walnut pesto. Either I was quite hungry or it was quite good.

A little more wandering and I found Hofbrauhaus. I guess it's a must see, but I opened the door to the cacophany of sound and people and rapidly shut it again. I am kind of enjoying my alone time.

But, McDonald's was also not on my radar. I just thought it was funny here.

Then it was back through Marienplatz, and a quick stop inside St. Peter's, and to our meeting point.

I had a little time to wander around and just took in the juxtaposition of Bavarian charm and German efficiency. I would like more time to explore one day.

Back on the bus and to Dachau. I thought I should go to a concentration camp once in my life. Just to remind myself that the world isn't always kind and, I don't know ... to honor those that lost so much at the hands of others. The gate at the entrance says "Work will set you free."

So maliciously evil, the lies. Dachau was a work camp, not an "extermination" camp, but it is awful. We went through the museum and watched a short video and you could just feel the evilness of the place. Outside the museum are memorials to remind us to never forget and never repeat the thoughts and deeds that happened here.

Part of the evil is the beauty of the location. Just so cruel. I couldn't bring myself to take photos of the rebuilt barracks, but the rows of trees show how many there were.

At the end of the barracks are churches built as memorials to the victims here. Christian, Jewish, and Catholic.

The crematorium just felt like pure evil. The gas chamber was never used, but I needed to get out as soon as possible. I didn't realize it was the chamber until I read the plaque outside, but I needed out. It is haunted. And, no, I couldn't/wouldn't take photos of this horrible place. The mass burial sites in such beautiful locations. Mounds of dirt over masses of bodies.

It's just unbearable. I needed to go once, I don't need to go back. I won't forget it. There is an audioguide available, but that's at the visitor center and our tour escort took us well past that into the museum to see the video with the history, so I don't have more information. But, I don't need it. It was awful enough.

I was ready to be gone and soon enough, we were back on the bus. Heading home. Stop at one of the rest areas for dinner and just as confusing as before for me. Then a nap until I was back on base. What a whirlwind. And, what did I do with my free Sunday? I napped. And, yeah, I did give negative feedback about our tour escort. Turns out the person scheduled was sick and she was a last minute fill-in. She won't be used again, they told me.

Louisville Vegan Jerky

When people hear that I eat a vegan diet, they automatically think that means "healthy." And I really do try, but don't get me wrong ... I like snacks ... A LOT!!! Some snacks that are vegan aren't healthy and are full of sugar. And I remember the days I loved a good salty snack like Jerky. Jerky was a staple easy savory snack that makes me think of long road trips. You can always find jerky at a roadside convenience store.

When I heard about vegan jerky options, I knew I had to try. I admit, I was a bit skeptical. Because, really jerky is really dead animal flesh that has been dried and cured until it is super chewy, right? How could a vegan option really replicate that savory, chewy sensation? 

Stanley Chase, the owner of Louisville Vegan Jerky, offered me the opportunity to sample vegan jerky. Sure, I'll give it a shot. Louisville Vegan Jerky started making jerky in 2012. I kind of like the story, and the personal feel of the company. I'm away from home for a bit and I will freely admit, I was pretty excited to find this box in my APO box.

Some interesting pieces of information about the flavors in general

1. The Jerky base is textured soy protein. I a not all wiggety about soy and we could go on and on debating the benefits and the purported risks of soy. Louisville Vegan uses an organically grown, non-GMO soy product. 
2. Louisville Vegan uses products that do not contain gluten. Getting a gluten-free certification is lengthy and expensive. Many soy sauces contain gluten, so Louisville Vegan uses the similar tasting (and gluten-free) tamari instead 
3. The flavor ingredients used are sourced from small local farms within 50 miles from Louisville Vegan's kitchen. I like that ... not imported from overseas (especially the Asian country that is practicing Sun Tzu Art of War on us, and winning ...that's another rant for another day). Not harvested and transported across miles and miles. Not filled with artificial preservatives. I really like supporting community and family businesses and Louisville Vegan is this and does this. 
4. The packages come in  2.5 ounce bags for 2.5 servings per bag. Calorie ranges from 70-90 calories per serving (Maple Bacon has highest calorie count at 90, Sriracha Maple comes in at 80). Fat calories are 30-35 grams per sserving (Maple Bacon is again the leader). There is 6-7 grams of protein per serving. Sooooo .... if like me, you find yourself unable to stop at a single serving and you eat the entire bag at one sitting, worst case scenario is 225 calories, 87 calories from fat (none of it is the bad trans fats). And you will get about about 15 grams of protein. 

So, let's talk about what you really want to know ... how is it? Because, really, jerky that isn't dead animal? 

I was flabbergasted that I was sent the 4 main flavors to sample. Not just one flavor. And full size bags, not little samples. I opened all of them and sat down with a glass of wine. I figured I needed to taste all the flavors to give a good review. 

First, all the things that the flavors have in common. 

1. When opening the bags, they all contain a little stay fresh, do not eat packet. This is to keep the jerky fresh and from getting all stuck together. The bags are resealable. 

2. All the jerky strips look the same. Irregular shaped strips of chewy jerky goodness. Kind of reminds me of meat jerky and how the strips are irregular shaped and different sizes and shapes. And for you meat-eaters out there, don't tell me this looks "gross." Because if it does, then I dare you to look at your fried strips of pig meat and fat. Or your dead animal jerky and you will have to admit, it looks pretty similar. 

3. Texture ... it is substantial and pleasant. It is chewy, but not spongey chewy. It takes a little work with the molars, but it does separate in your teeth easily. If you are looking for a hard, super chewy jerky that you have to work on for awhile, and tear apart with your teeth, then this is not it. 

Next, on to the flavors:

I found the mildest of the flavors to be the two Bourbon flavors. I am not a foodie, so I can't tell you any fine nuances and subtleties.  Pete's Bourbon Smoked Black Pepper I found to be the mildest flavor. Kind of smooth almost. It was saltier than Todd's Bourbon Smoked Chipotle, which had a tiny bit of spiciness that I noticed at end of the piece I tasted. So, I ate another and the spiciness level got a little stronger. The Bourbon Smoked Black Pepper has the mildest rating and the Bourbon Smoked Chipotle had a rating mid-way between mild and moderate. Both are sweetened with Sorghum from a Kentucky farm 50 miles away from kitchen. 

If you want a little more spice, then go for Enid's Sriracha Maple. The maple syrup is sourced from a maple farm 50 miles from the kitchen and the sriracha is organic. This is rated as moderate spicy. My unsophisticated palate would describe it as salty with a hint of sweetness that finishes kind of spicy. The spicy factor does add up when you keep eating. 

Of the four flavors, my favorite was Carrie's Sesame Teriyaki. Maybe because I like Asian flavors. I thought the flavor of the Sesame Teriyaki was the boldest of the flavors. It was salty and had great flavor of sesame and soy sauce. UMMMM ... I think I ate the whole bag at once. 

So, my verdict so far...I REALLY REALLY REALLY like it. I'm always looking for good and flavorful snacks. When I hike or do my version of "running", I like to have real food with me. This will be perfect for hiking. It has great flavor, great texture, salt, sometimes sweet. Easy to chew. Toss it in a ziplock baggie and I'm ready to go. 

I liked it so much that I ordered more including a 5-pack from Amazon that contained Paulette's Maple Bacon. I am guessing this is one of their monthly flavors as it isn't listed as one of their primary flavors on the website. This was mild with no heat and had a sweet and smokey flavor. Also pretty darn scrumptious. 

So ... details. Where can you find this amazing goodness? Well, I ordered from Amazon. The website has a listing of specialty storefronts and other on-line retailers. You can also join the Jerky of the Month Club. For $14.99 per month (less if you do a 3-or 6-month subscription), you can get bags of the regular flavors, plus a bag of their test flavor each month. Only members get the exclusive test flavor. February was Thai Peanut. Yeah, I think I'll be joining. Maybe you should, too. 

Just so you know, I didn't get paid to say any of this. The opinions are mine alone and freely shared. Feel free to follow them on Instagram @louveganjerky and Facebook 

Flat Tire in Italy

It wouldn't be real life without a little drama. So, let me tell you about my rental car experience. I admit, I have been nervous about a rental car in Italy. When I came to Italy a few years ago with UltraGirl, our rental experience wasn't great. Lost transmission on the Autostrade and had to get towed to a gas station. Then had to call a cab to get back to the Airport. So...

Anyway, the government Commercial Travel Office couldn't book my rental for me so I was authorized a rental upon arrival. I was picked up at the airport and had a few days of transportation to and from the hospital area of base. My rental was picked up on base a few days later at Europcar in the Exchange. Easy peasy. My first rental was an Volkswagon Up (mini-economy). I really don't know how to drive standard transmission, and this was the smallest they have. And, wow!!! It was a piece of crap. Seriously. It tried to stall out when stepping on the gas, and here you can't delay pulling into traffic. It rattled. But, it got me from point A to point B. That was well and fine for 2 weeks.

Then I got a call that I needed to turn in the car. It had so many miles on it that they were sending it to the lot for sale. And, oh, by the way ... Europcar isn't doing mini-economy automatic transmissions anymore, so my replacement was a compact.

My replacement turned out to be an Audi A1 Turbo Diesel Injection. Brand new. Hardly any kilometers on it. I was first renter.

 And it was a fun little car ... for 4 days. On Saturday, a tire guage sensor came on while I was driving home from the hospital. Straight to the Europcar dealer. Was told ... it's probably just the sensor. Go to the Agip (gas station) and have it checked. So, as I go out to the car, it's clearly flat. Not all the way, but enough to notice. Again, the Europcar representative told me, it's probably nothing. Go to Agip for a tire fill. Umm? How do they know it's nothing? Well, there isn't anything they can do about it this weekend anyway. So ... with the help from a friend I ran into in the parking lot, I learned about fix-a-flat. Used the whole can. Went to the Auto Hobby shop and filled up the rest of the way. Drove around the base a few times and then to Agip to have it checked. Was reassured that tire pressure was normal. No, I didn't check ... I asked for help so I could be sure.

Now, Sunday morning. I give a sideways glance to the tire. Maybe it's a little low? By the time I went 8km to the hospital, it was dead flat. Nothing. Car was lilting.

Did my work. Called the emergency line. Was told that a truck was on it's way and they would fix my tire. Then was called and told my car would be towed and I could catch a cab to the airport for a replacement. The truck finally arrived and he asked if I had a spare. We opened the trunk and there was a pair of tennis shoes where a spare would have been. Is that a hint? If you need a spare, you should maybe walk instead?

Anyway, the driver told me where he was towing the vehicle and told me it would be ready for me to pick up tomorrow.

Tomorrow? What to do in the meantime? Well, I was on call, so needed to be available at the hospital, so I stayed. If I had not been near the hospital, I think I would have been left on the side of the road to figure things out on my own. Glad I was where I was.

Monday morning, with help, we called the repair shop. No car. They said I was supposed to go to the airport to pick up a new car. Then I called the tow company. They said my car would be taken to the repair shop later in the day. When? Alora (later). I called the repair shop again. Still no luck. By 10 AM, my dealer opened and I called. They first said I was supposed to have gone to the airport to get a car. But, then why was I told to wait until today to get this one back repaired? Sigh. Frustration began to set in. Eventually, it was sorted out. The airport sent another car ... same model, more miles, different color ... to my dealer. I was able to pick it up later in the day.

I had driven a total of 75km on the rental. I was charged premium price for 11 litres (1/8 of a tank they said) since I "returned" the vehicle without a full tank. Since 33 litres is about 7/8 of a tank, 11 litres seems a little high for 75 km. Especially since I can go  500 km on 33 liters. I have tried to argue this with central customer service to no avail. I am still driving the third car. But, my dealer tells me that they didn't find anything wrong with the flat tire. Umm??? Then why was it flat? It has since been wrecked by the next person who rented it. I think it was cursed.

So, that's my drama. If that's the worst experience in 7 months in Italy, then I can live with it. Here's hoping it remains uneventful. But, I can say customer service is definitely harder when you don't speak the language. I've been told it's just not the same in Italy in general. Customer service is definitely not about the customer.

And, sadly after 2 1/2 months with my hot rod, I got a call that they had the mini-economy back in stock. And I had to turn in my fun car for another clown car. At least it gets me from point A to point B. But, the gas mileage isn't as good and it sure doesn't have any power. I also was confused at first because it is a manual/automatic hybrid and I couldn't start it unless it was in full neutral. I was embarrassed to call for assistance again. And get told that I would have to taxi to the airport for a replacement Good thing I have friends who helped me figure it out and didn't laugh at me.