Munich and Dachau in a Day

Since I am planning on 3 months in Italy and have only a few weekends free, I have to make the most out of my time here. I don't know really what to see and do, so I took the easy way out ... let someone else plan it for me. On base, there is a travel agency called ITT. I don't know what it stands for, but they have one at every base. They plan weekend trips and all I have to do is pay and show up. Sort of. Anyway, my first free weekend after starting work, they had a trip to Munich and Dachau. All in one day on a Saturday. OK, sounds good. I would still have Sunday to figure out something if I wanted.

All ITT trips are on bus, so it's up and outta there early ... like 0030 early. I had a blanket from my room and my travel pillow, and I packed snacks. Ready, set, go. Almost as soon as we were off base, I was sleeping away. Somewhere around 0630 near the German (or was it Austrian?) border, we stopped for breakfast at a roadside gas station/rest area/convenience store/restaurant. I wish I had taken pictures because it is different that back home. I have come to learn these places are quite common with buffet stations and coffee stations and fresh squeezed juice and hot bars and cold bars. It was a lot to figure out and I am getting the hang of Italian, not yet German. Didn't know how to ask if they had soy milk or if anything was vegan. So, coffee without milk for me ... lots of sugar. The alps are beautiful. Good thing I bought a heavier coat, it's cold here.

Back to sleep and next stop Munich. We arrived somewhere around 10 AM. Our tour escort (not a guide) gave us some very vague information. "Here is an old gate to the city, You can walk here." "There is a story about the church and the architect making a deal with the devil, so look at the windows, there is something about them." That's about the extent of it. I guess I expected to learn a little bit even though I knew there wasn't an "actual" tour. We were given a map that had been photocopied multiple times and a time to show up back at the bus in about 3 1/2 hours.

We were dropped off in front of the National Theater,

which is in a square with the Residenz. Some of the people on the tour knew the escort, who apparently knew the city and asked to walk around with her. I asked if I could join them since I was on my own. So, we walked past high end shopping and found ourselves in Marienplatz.

I stopped for a picture and they were gone. So, I'm on my own. That's OK I'll figure it out. Later in the day I found a guidebook. Also, towards the end of my day, I found a hop-on hop-off bus stop. I could have hopped on at the beginning and learned some interesting facts.

I checked the map and found the direction for the church that is somehow mysterious. The door does not look like a church with heavy bronze. It just seemed so cold and hard and made me think of German efficiency and sternness.

The church was lovely inside.

I looked at the windows, but didn't notice anything different about them. Apparently, the story goes, the architect prayed for funding to complete the church. The devil answered and funding was provided; however, the deal was that there needed to be a space of pure darkness. At some corner of the church, there are no windows and absolute darkness. I didn't see this because I didn't know what I was looking for. Or maybe, that's at the Cathedral of Our Lady (which I didn't see except for the towers). There is also a legend that the footprint at the entrance to the Cathedral is that of the Devil and the mausoleum is pure black. Is that the darkness? I'm not really sure because I am piecing things together from guidebooks and other people's memories later. But, still an interesting story. The main figure is St. Michael fighting Evil. Interesting.

By the way ... bronze catfish? 

I made it back to Marienplatz and did a little eavesdropping on tours. I was lucky enough to see the glockenspiel "show" at 1100. Boy, the performance is long. Apparently one level is the story of a wedding among Bavarian royalty and the other is celebration of the end of the plague. 43 bells and 32 bronze figures moving. That's a lot of mechanical activity.

I also overheard some American tourists talking about climbing the tower of St. Peter's Cathedral. Hmm,,, ok for 2 euro, why not?

From here I had amazing view of the city including the towers of the Cathedral.

View over St.> Peter's and the Old Town Hall

The gothic building in the square hosts the New Town Hall, finished in 1909, and the other side of the square holds the Old Town Hall which was completely restored after World War II.

From here I wandered a bit and admit, I got a bit lost, but not for long. I did find myself in the Jewish section

and I did manage to find the Isator Gate, intact since the 14th century. 

And then I got hungry, so I managed to work my way to the Market thinking I could find some fruit to snack on. When what to my wondrous eyes did appear? Vegan? on the sign? Whoah, Nelly. This was a most amazing seasoned (but cold) portabello with savory walnut pesto. Either I was quite hungry or it was quite good.

A little more wandering and I found Hofbrauhaus. I guess it's a must see, but I opened the door to the cacophany of sound and people and rapidly shut it again. I am kind of enjoying my alone time.

But, McDonald's was also not on my radar. I just thought it was funny here.

Then it was back through Marienplatz, and a quick stop inside St. Peter's, and to our meeting point.

I had a little time to wander around and just took in the juxtaposition of Bavarian charm and German efficiency. I would like more time to explore one day.

Back on the bus and to Dachau. I thought I should go to a concentration camp once in my life. Just to remind myself that the world isn't always kind and, I don't know ... to honor those that lost so much at the hands of others. The gate at the entrance says "Work will set you free."

So maliciously evil, the lies. Dachau was a work camp, not an "extermination" camp, but it is awful. We went through the museum and watched a short video and you could just feel the evilness of the place. Outside the museum are memorials to remind us to never forget and never repeat the thoughts and deeds that happened here.

Part of the evil is the beauty of the location. Just so cruel. I couldn't bring myself to take photos of the rebuilt barracks, but the rows of trees show how many there were.

At the end of the barracks are churches built as memorials to the victims here. Christian, Jewish, and Catholic.

The crematorium just felt like pure evil. The gas chamber was never used, but I needed to get out as soon as possible. I didn't realize it was the chamber until I read the plaque outside, but I needed out. It is haunted. And, no, I couldn't/wouldn't take photos of this horrible place. The mass burial sites in such beautiful locations. Mounds of dirt over masses of bodies.

It's just unbearable. I needed to go once, I don't need to go back. I won't forget it. There is an audioguide available, but that's at the visitor center and our tour escort took us well past that into the museum to see the video with the history, so I don't have more information. But, I don't need it. It was awful enough.

I was ready to be gone and soon enough, we were back on the bus. Heading home. Stop at one of the rest areas for dinner and just as confusing as before for me. Then a nap until I was back on base. What a whirlwind. And, what did I do with my free Sunday? I napped. And, yeah, I did give negative feedback about our tour escort. Turns out the person scheduled was sick and she was a last minute fill-in. She won't be used again, they told me.