Plitvices and Postonja

You may want to pour a glass of wine if you plan to read this. It may be a long one. So, I have limited time in Italy and have to make the most out of every free moment. I don't have a lot of free time and very few free weekends, so I have no time to waste. I had booked a tour with ITT to go to Croatia and Plitvices Lake in Croatia, but the tour was cancelled due to lack of participation. I was bummed. I was looking forward to this. I had seen the pictures of the lake of 1000 waterfalls and I wanted to go. So, what does someone like me do? I whine. And people listened. I was told the Airman wanted to go to Plitvices, so I asked if she wanted to road trip with me. She asked if Mama Gooch and Junior Gooch could come along. The Navigator heard of our plans and a road trip was planned.

Of course, all I packed was INKnBURN, because that's almost all I have with me other than uniforms. Friday after work, I picked up the ladies.

 

Yep, believe it or not, I'm driving. My first time on European roads ... well, other than back and forth to work. So, here we go, we're off. Girls weekend, here we come. The Navigator got me through town and the "scary turnabout" and we didn't die.

First hurdle complete. And then onto the Autostrade and we didn't die. Second hurdle. We sailed along paying tolls, collecting tickets. We got lost and turned around in Trieste ... that place is nuts and GPS didn't do us any favors. Then, we passed into Slovenia almost unnoticed, just a slow-down at the border. We talked a lot about whether we needed a Vignette or not. It's basically the toll you pay for a week on the freeways in Slovenia. We stopped at a gas station to buy one. Closed. OK. GPS routed us through small towns and back roads. Didn't need that vignette. Had a few more missed turns and we were pushing time. Reservations required check-in by 2200, but they were extending us until 2300. I am sure the coastline and the small towns are beautiful and quaint in the daylight. It was getting dark, so not much to see. As we passed into Croatia, we were stopped and showed our Passports. The guard was funny ... first he said something I didn't understand. I shoved 5 passports at him and he smiled, looked at us, and said "hello." He took his time, looking at each passport and at us and stamped them with almost a look of deviousness mixed with pride. The folks who live here were surprised, they have never been stamped at the border before. I think he did this for the "American girls." Few more small towns and then to the Autocesta. 48 kuna sounds like a lot in tolls .. 6 euro. Through long tunnels. Up over mountains. After on mountain, we entered snow ... suddenly. Snow on the ground, dusting in the air. Low visibility. This was gonna be fun. Then over another mountain pass and it cleared up a bit. And no, we are NOT stopping at McDonald's for fries. Maybe tomorrow. we eventually found ourselves back on a small 2-lane road in the dark, late at night. Up over mountain passes. Areas with not a soul in sight. Few scattered houses. The topic turned to horror movies. Yep, named every one we could think of. Decided who was going to die in what order. The Airman as the young white girl was going to have sex and die, but with who? I am old and not very exciting, so Freddy and Jason would just walk past me. As we passed one area at the top of the mountain, there was nothing but darkness to our side ... were we on the edge of a cliff? And we passed a snowy area that is like nothing I have ever seen ... the trees were so laden with snow, the branches almost brushed our cars. I have never seen snow flocking like this. I drove slowly. And, we didn't die. Ultimately we made it to House Tina. Mama Gooch had made reservations. GPS pulled us into the back. Lights were out. Uh oh. Mama Gooch and I walked around, bravely. Found light and the curator who was very kind. and she directed us around the block. On our way back to the car, we hatched a plan ... Mama Gooch and I ran as fast as we could through the foot of snow, hopped in the car. I gunned it in reverse and Mama Gooch cried. "Body on the floor, We have to get out of here." Navigator just said turn here ... Junior Gooch and Airman panicked. Then, we laughed and laughed. We were taken into the house. Up the stairs to room number 5. The hallway had a cigarette smell. UGH. The room did not. Clean and simple and comfortable. 3 beds in the upstairs loft, 2 in the main room with the dining table and kitchenette. We crashed quickly to sleep. And we didn't die.

This is honestly a real picture on the day we left. 

Next morning, up for breakfast at 0900. Simple and satisfying. The plum jelly ... yum. The coffee .... heavenly.

Then it was off to Plitvices. Just 10 minutes away. Easy simple straight shot. How many layers. Of course, I had INKnBURN, but would yoga pants be enough? Layers? Coats? High of 50, but did you see the snow? Decided on layers. Also, who knew how long we would be out there, so I tried out my OrangeMud Hydraquiver VP2 for the first time. OMIGOSH, I had so many snacks in these little pockets. More about that in another post, though. We parked, crossed the bridge, and entered the park.

There are 2 entrances. Entrance 2 is closed for winter.

Paid our fee, entered, and then were immediately blown away by the view. This was all I "needed" to see. Incredible waterfall. But, we knew there was much more.

We had a map and hadn't touched the surface.

We followed the paths and I could have stopped every second for pictures and more pictures and more pictures. We reached a fork in the path ... down to the cave? Or across the water. Cave it is. All I could here in my head was a song from the 1980s animated version of the Hobbit ... "Down Down to Goblin Town." It was slick in spots, but we made it down.

Mama Gooch and I braved going in. No lights. Darkness. Thank goodness for cell phones and lights. Dead end and turned around. I clunked my head hard in the darkness. But, I didn't die.

As we entered light, there was another path leaving the cave and up over a set of falls. They seem small, but the roaring sound ... and the water sloshed under and up through the spaces in the walkway. You could seriously feel the power of the water.

 Across the lake and down and around more walkways, some with standing water meant wet shoes, but it was worth it to be at the bottom of the big falls. It is absolutely indescribable the power and beauty of the water.

 

After a bit, up and out and around and back to our original path. This time, we took the path across the river and up to the second area of the park with more falls.

Here is some TMI, so skip ahead if you want. But this time not about me. Mama Gooch was feeling some GI discomfort. The bathrooms in this part of the park are closed for the winter. No tissues. What to do. Well, we are all military. We are tough. Dig a hole in the snow? Use the snow as cleansing agent? For all bits and hands? Ignore the people hiking by? Yep, found a semi-quiet spot. But, wait ... Navigator was prepared with a single wet-wipe. Success!!! The people walking by barely even noticed. Much of this trek was on some icy paths and along the road up and away from the lake.

We made it to the mid-section of the park and waited for the boat that goes across the river and back to the lower part.

The upper part was closed this time of year. It is supposed to be more beautiful, if that is even possible. If you had the right gear (we didn't) and the time (also we didn't) you could hike it. But no bus stop there, even if it is supposed to be the prettiest part of the lake. We took the boat back to a point where we could hike out of the park.

The bathrooms were clean and warm. Navigator said we did 20,000 steps, but she has short legs. Mama Gooch Strava said over 9 miles. I left Trusty Garmin in the BnB...dammit, that would have been a fun map to have.

Now, for dinner, 'cause we are hungry. I'm OK ... remember, tons of snacks. The restaurant at the park advertises the lamb on a spit in the center. Mama Gooch (also vegan) and I thought we could find something less disgusting to us. We drove in the direction of House Tina. Nice restaurant on the left. They seemed to be just setting up for dinner. The waiter met us at the door. "Nope, all booked with reservations." "Every table? For how long?" "2-3 hours." "OK, can we make a reservation for later?" "Nope, they will be closed by then."  What? You will be closed on a Saturday night at 1900? Really? "Are there other restaurants nearby?" "No. No restaurants." Back to the car, keep driving. Restaruant on the right. Airman hops out. Met at the door by woman shaking finger. "No, all done for the night." Really? At 1630?  Then a trial at a market, but did we want to do dishes. Back to the park. Had lovely roasted potato dish and did not see, or smell, lamb on the spit. And only 18 kuna, 3 euro. Also fun fact, apparently Abba is very popular. We heard a few songs on the radio. Cranked it up and we all sang along.

 Back at the room, we all immediately got on Internet. Showered. Had wine. And crashed. Next morning had to get up and at'em earlier. 0700  breakfast to get on the road by 0800.

The last cave entrance is at 1200. Our drive back through the same 2 lane road confirmed we were on the edge of a cliff. And, more Abba on the radio, so more singing along.

And we did go through magnificent forests, but all the snow had melted. I promise, it was there the other day.

The towns didn't look quite so barren today, but there were some really bombed out homes. I wonder if these are just run down from age or did they get damaged in any of the wars in the last century that came through here.

More TMI ... I was hydrated enough and had to pull over on a 2-lane road. Found a bombed out house for shelter. Here is an INKnBURN plug ... I fell and scraped my knee. When I got home, I saw my torn flesh. Did my INKnBURN pants tear? Nope. Anyway, those tunnels and mountain passes went by quickly today and were not covered with snow any longer. The tunnels are pretty incredible through the mountains. Sometimes a mile long and windy.

We had to stop for gas and my little rental took 33 liters for 250 kuna. Seems like a lot, Right? 8ish gallons for 37 euro. Yes, expensive diesel by US standards, but pretty cheap for Europe, IMO. And 8 gallons for the distance we have driven ... I was impressed. Anyway, crossed out of Croatia and got more passport stamps. 100 meters and into Slovenia for passport stamps. Yay... 3 stamps in 2 days. I wonder if I will actually get an Italy stamp on this trip. Again, gas station for vignette closed, took our chances.

Then onto back roads and winding and winding and winding through small villages to Potsonja Caverns.

OMIGOSH!!! There are caverns and there are CAVERNS. We had to take a train for 20 minutes to get to the center of the cavern where we started our walking tour.

We went from 90-120 meters underground. The chambers were up to 40 meters high in places. This is the center section of the cavern. Upper sections have collapsed. Lower section is not yet developed enough. But, they do spelunking tours to the river that created this magnificent space. The bridges across caverns were built by Russian prisoners during WWII. Part of the force labor. Will not think about the hardship. I bet they did not enjoy the magnificence of the cavern, while building bridges, in the dark. At one point, I simply had to stop taking pictures. There was just so much. It's indescribable. In other caverns I've toured, they have the usual stalagmite and stalactites and some incredible formations. Here, everywhere you look are magnificent formations. One after another and each more incredible than the last. And, even some massive formations that have fallen because of the age and massive size.

I decided that civilized history here is so much older than in the US, but I think even natural history may be more ancient. Either that, or I just don't know the magnificence available in my own back yard. Probably that, so I have to keep looking with wonder at what I have closer to home. They even have creatures living here? I don't know the name of the albino "baby dragon" that lives in the caverns, and I didn't take pictures because ... well, they live in the dark and I didn't want to be one of "those people" who use the flash and hurt their tiny eyes. Apparently lots of insect life, too. Cool. We had a chance to pick up postcards at the giftshop in the cavern and then were rushed back to the train. Navigator and I saw a seat near the front ... conductor shook his finger and waved us to the back. Mama Gooch and Junior Gooch were being shuttled by a woman speaking Slavik and were shaking their heads in agreement. They were waved to the front seat. What? 20 minute train to the surface with amazing wonders to be seen.

After lunch, we drove a few clicks up the road to Predjama Castle. This castle was started in the 12th century and half of it is built into the cave. Of the "modern" structure, the outer walls are cave walls and you can't see where the cave and the built structure meet.

The audio guide described castle life as cold, dark, and hard. Castles were for security, not for safety. And the tour reflected that. No luxurious decorations. Kind of stark. At one point, we took steps built into the cavern walls up into the cave castle, but couldn't go all the way. The most interesting story is that the most famous king who lived here would often go through the caves and out the back of the mountain to gather food for his people when under siege. To really kind of demoralize the besiegers, he would send meat and once, strawberries, to the enemy. They were baffled about how he was getting supplies. I felt like I was in Lord of the Rings. Seriously, Helm's Keep.The terrace steps to the tower were also closed for the winter so the best views of the valleys were not to be had. Funny story. Navigator and Airman decided to hang in the car while the rest of us toured. We had a bottle of wine left after last night. Not anymore.

GPS then took us not to a paved road, but to a dirt logging road. Bumpy and slow and not a person in sight. Well, there was one Babushka and she did not look happy to see us. But, what was she doing out there and why was she in the middle of nowhere.

But, we made it to the main road and we didn't die.

As we got on the freeway, 20 clicks from Italy, there was a sign about the required vignette. Navigator said "don't worry about it. Probably won't matter." Mama Gooch and I stressed ... what if they have border guards today and we get in trouble, the fine is steep. So, 10 clicks from the border, I stopped for a 15 euro vignette. 10 minutes later, we were in Italy. No border guards to notice if we had the vignette or not. Smooth sailing on the Autostrade back home. As we got into town, the rain we were promised all weekend, hit. The sky was black.

The mountains were eerie. Quickly unloaded gear into the appropriate cars and just like that, the weekend was over.

And, we didn't die.

Seriously, I am 480 days from military retirement. I am considering a 1 year sabbatical to tour Europe. There is so much to see, not just the history and the cities, but the natural wonders. Can I survive on my pension? Can we figure out how to bring the girls?