Venice for Carnevale

7 hour time zone difference. The week has been a blur and I stopped feeling like a zombie sometime on Thursday. I don't have a lot of free weekends during my 3 month tour in Italy, so I have to take advantage of all of them.

The Doctor was traveling in Europe and when he heard I would be just an hour from Venice, he adjusted his schedule so that he could spend the weekend with me. What a pleasant surprise for both of us that it was Carnevale.

Friday, I was able to leave work a little early and MajorDaisy drove me to the train station in Pordenone and showed me how to buy (and activate) my tickets.

My first train ride

It was an easy train ride and I had an outlet to keep my phone charged while I surfed the net. I looked out the window as the train passed small towns and farms. Other than the different architecture on the buildings, I could have been traveling in the Midwest somewhere. The houses were more square, made of concrete, and more colorful. I was on the slower commuter train stopping in every town, so it took about an hour and a half. It was easy finding my way around the station in Venice and the Doctor met me at the station. We headed out and there were a few signs of Carnevale ... confetti on the ground and masks for sale and some glowy bouncy things for sale. We stopped so I could find a mask and then we caught the Vaporetto to Fondamente Nove.

 The Doctor and his Girlfriend had rented a flat from AirBNB. We met the Girlfriend and made our 5 minute walk to the flat. Super cute. Little 2 bedroom. Tiny kitchen. Tiny bathroom. Perfect.

After settling in, it was time to find dinner. The vegetarian penne was awesome and the wine was plentiful.

We were just walking and wandering and finding our way to San Marcos Square. Along the way, we ran into a square with some street techno music and did a little dancing in the street. Well, they danced and I watched. I have no rhythm and don't move very well. I hadn't had enough wine, obviously. And, the scents in the air made me inhale deeply ... Cloves and other things reminded me of my youth. I felt giddy like a teenager again. I was so excited to be in Venice.

 On our way to the Square, we found a purse shop with beautiful purses at amazing prices. I admired, but couldn't bring myself to purchase leather. The Doctor and his Girlfriend did enough purchasing for all of  us. At the Square, it was quieter than I expected. I guess I expected Carnevale to feel like Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Here it is more about the pageantry and the costumes we saw were amazing. I absolutely love the period costumes. And some people go all out. We did encounter some little girls who were having fun with their confetti and I found confetti in my hair when we got back to the flat. They were so cute the way they were so happy. Ahhhh ... childhood.

 I couldn't help but take a few random pictures. The Hotel Danieli is a stunner. And, these Murano glass pieces ... well, you know my mind. Beautiful, though.

Now, this is an impressive bed

 

Next morning, we woke leisurely and made our way to the Square again. Busier than last night, but not completely crowded at first. The cafe (espresso) and pastries were divine. We wandered and took more pictures. There were many more costumed revelers, but it wasn't madness. There were some superhero and Star Wars costumes, but I really loved the period pieces best. Even the children celebrate Carnevale.

Lines were long and we eventually went up the watchtower for an amazing view of the square and the lagoon. Basilica San Marco is stunning from the ground and incredible from above.

The Doges Palace was the residence of the Doge (governor) and also the house of justice.

There are bells in the tower, but this is not the bell tower. The bell tower is cool ... it has animated statues that move during the chimes.

Apparently the history is that it is so beautiful that the designer and builder (one person) was blinded after completion so it could never be duplicated. The crowds continued to grow as the day went on. I needed a break from the masses.

We had some amazing hot wine and took a Gondola tour of the canals. 45 minutes and 100 euro regardless of number of passengers. It's not the romantic gondola of the movies. No cozy blankets. No singing gondolier. But, still very pleasant. Learned a few facts from Igor:

1. Venice was sovereign until as recently as 1866. 
2. It is made of of 118 islands, divided by 160 canals, and connected by 420 bridges. 
3. There are 100 churches and the population remains stable at 60K. 
4. The gondoliers are licensed by the city and there are only 433 licenses granted. Until one independent gondolier gives up a license, a new gondolier cannot be added. The gondoliers are independent and own their own gondolas. 
5. Igor's gondola is 11 years old and named Martina. 

We passed under the Bridge of Sighs which connects the Doge's Palace with the Prison. It's a romantic name, but not such a romantic story. When individuals were condemned to death the crossed the bridge on the way to the connecting prison and sighed. When they were brought back for execution, they again crossed the bridge and sighed. Those not condemned were put in prison wells or pits. They often flooded during high tide, so I'm guessing even though not condemned to execution, they probably died too. Gruesome history, so why does it fascinate me? The only prisoner to ever escape the prison? Casanova ...

 As we continued on, we saw the house of Marco Polo, lots of palaces (some of which remain private residences), and several churches. I don't know the stories behind them all. We were low tide and I think the view is different at high tide. 

After our tour, back on the Vaporetto for a trip to Murano Island. We accidentally got on the wrong direction and went the long way around the Island.

Once on Murano, we were HUNGRY. I had minestrone soup? But, it was a clear vegetable noodle soup. I was expecting Lentils. I am convinced the broth was chicken, but was assured, repeatedly, "solamente verdura."  We found our way to the factory, but didn't time it right for demonstrations. The Girlfriend took off a chain to see some pieces behind it and up the stairs. She was mesmerized by a beautiful Van Gogh sunflower panel in Murano glass. I saw a fun Penguin to add to my collection and a lovely paperweight. But at 585 and 330 Euro, I couldn't justify it. Even the deal of 330 for both, just beyond my needs. Apparently, we were in the high roller section.

She bought her piece and we were given VIP treatment. Private water taxi back to the flat. Woot!!!

Just around the corner from the flat is San Giorgio Square. The hospital is still functioning and apparently very modern. I heard a story of the basilica and the hospital; however, I have since learned that the story is related to a different basilica in town. I had heard of St. Mary's Basilica and passed it (quickly) in the gondola, but didn't know the history of it at the time. Next trip, I will find it and share the history.

After a brief rest, it was out to dinner. It was even tamer tonight than on Friday. Definitely not Mardi Gras. But, we did see lots of costumes going to the grand gala ball for the night. My dinner was gnocchi with tomato sauce. It was tasty. The tomato sauce was pink, so I suspect there was latte or crema in it, although it was denied by the servers.

Earlier sleep tonight. The Doctor and his Girlfriend had to wake early to catch a Vaporetto and a train to Rome. I slept in. I thought of going to the Flight of the Eagle in San Marcos Square. But, I found out it was scheduled for noon instead of 11AM. It was raining (really raining), and cold. And I heard it would be crowded. I saw pictures on-line of the preceding week's Flight of the Angel and the Square was packed. I didn't really want to take the walk in the rains with the crowd for a 2 minute spectacle. And then have to leave even later to return "home." So, I slept in leisurely. Before leaving, I had to take a pic from the view from the veranda of the flat.

And, when I left, I took a leisurely stroll to San Rialto Bridge. Famous iconic architecture.

And, then a 1 mile walk across town to the train station. It gave me an opportunity to see different parts of the city including the busy shopping district. It was packed with people and the umbrellas didn't make it any easier. Lovely views of the Grand Canal. Worth the walk.

 Made it to the train station. And ... this next part is TMI, so you can skip it if you want. Remember my gastronomical concerns from yesterday (chicken broth in the vegetable soup, dairy in the tomato sauce)? Well, something happened because I was quite happy to find the WC and happily parted with the Euro to enter the WC, just in time for the guts to decide something was not digesting well. I knew it!!! Something was not right. 

OK ... no more TMI. I managed to find my ticket and train schedule and platform all by my little lonesome. The train home was quicker with fewer stops and an hour later, back to Pordenone. MajorDaisy was working, so her husband picked me up and brought me to base. And, then it was time to crash!!! Wheh that was a lot in 2 days and I'm tired. But, it was amazing and I can't wait to go back. It was only 15 euro round trip.