INKnBURN

INKnBURN

Thursday, June 12, 2014

Giant Tortoises--June 12

Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz
After yesterday's adventures, I was exhausted waking up. Besides, I felt we had reached the peak of the trip. But, today we get to see giant tortoises . . .the animal the Galapagos is most famous for.  It was going to be a much more relaxing day for mid-week.

I thought the scooters were cute














We started with a ride to the highlands, donned rubber boots, and walked through lush tropical vegetation to see some giant tortoises in the "wild." They really are quite large and very prehistoric. These have short necks and eat vegetation from the ground. The landscape was quite different than what we had been seeing on the other islands.We won't talk about the invisible, but painful, fire ants.
This lake is covered with red fern



















Then, we went to the Darwin Research Center.  They are very careful to keep breeding tortoises with their own species, which are unique from one island to another. They also collect eggs from the islands to protect them from feral animals. The hatchlings are numbered and color coded according to island. When they mature, they are eventually returned to the island where the eggs were found.


















We saw the widows of Lonesome George. He never bred with the females from his species and there are no more males left. The same will eventually happen to Diego if he doesn't breed. These boys are not very smart about breeding and don't seem to want to.



Diego
Widows













There is an area with several tortoises from different islands. These were rescued from people's back yards where they were kept as pets. They try to mate, but don't have the proper terrain for laying eggs, so there isn't a risk of interspecies breeding. And, they are also confused. It sounds painful, but sideways isn't quite right.






























The cactuses are really bizarre here. They are large tree trunks with cactus leaves really high. I'm a little fascinated by them. If they survive being eaten by turtles and get large enough where the leaves are out of range of the long necks, they grow this tall. 


On the pier, we encountered mini-godzillas.











At lunch, our temporary chef put out a pretty display. This is an Ok time to talk about the food. It was just OK. The company knew I ate plant-based and assured me that they were used to it and could accomodate. Well, it didn't get to the crew somehow and accomodation meant elimination. The typical breakfast of eggs and meat, for me was toast and tomatoes and fruit. Lots of fresh fruit and juice. Lunch was salad mostly, but lots of cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, onions, etc. Oh, and lots of fresh fruit and juice. Snacks were fresh fruit. Dinner was just like lunch. Dessert was fresh fruit. I didn't think I would get tired of pineapple, papaya, mango . . .but I did. Initially I loved the variety of juice (with every meal), but right now I don't care if I never see juice again. And, just let me tell you, when you are eating nothing but fresh fruit and fresh vegetables of a limited variety . . .well, you know, some people pay a lot of money to go to a spa for a "fruit cleanse." I got it "gratis" with this trip (bonus?), and this was about the day it started to kick in. It wasn't in my plans, but I got the benefit. I lost 9 pounds by the time I got home. It's a diet plan!!! Was that TMI? I must admit, greens, grains, legumes, seeds, nuts . . .would have been amazing.  Dinner that night was in town, and the vegetable quinoa was AMAZING!!!


Anyway, after lunch, we walked through town and saw construction that would not meet OSHA standards.















We found the trailhead to Tortuga Bay and took the 2.5K hike on winding and hilly pavers to the beach. It was a soft and white as the best beaches in Florida. It was nice and relaxing, until the hike back to the pier.



This guy came to sit with me on the beach.
I did not run away. I felt very brave






















We had dinner in town and walked around a bit. The Musician was chased off a park bench. If he hadn't moved, this cutie would have sat in his lap. Should I be jealous?




This was the half-way point of the trip and a great relaxing day. ZZZZZZZZZZZ.........

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Floreana and Post Office Bay--June 11

Cormorant Point
Black Mangrove
Good morning!!!! I never sleep past 6 AM because I can hardly wait to see what's next!!! How can it be better than yesterday?!?!? We are on Floreana this morning.

We started the day with a hike on Cormorant Point. I was excited to see the Green Sand Beach. Apparently, there are only 4 in the world (green because of the mineral olivine, one of the first crystals of lava flow). I have been to Papakolea on the Big Island in Hawaii . . .this was to be #2. We landed on a brown sand beach and there were sea lions . . .again. After an inquiry into the green sand, I was told later that it was there . . .just several layers under the brown sand we landed on. Years of brown sediment has covered the green. I wish I had dug, but I suppose that means there are really only 3 green sand beaches remaining. Guess I have to travel to Guam and Norway to see the other two.

Apparently the sand is green under a few layers





















We crossed to the other side passing flamingos and found ourselves on a white sand beach with lots of rays in the water. 
Yellow Warbler

Galapagos Daisy

Not indigenous

Fire in the sky




Then we went for a snorkel at Champion Islet. I thought about not snorkeling today.
It was very rough and I was getting tired. Besides, how could it surpass the playful sea lions from yesterday? I got in anyway because I didn't want to miss anything. I did take a tumble in the surf and was literally pouring seawater from my sinuses for 2 days. It was the best sinus rinse I've ever had.


IT WAS AMAZING!!!!! I will start out with the variety of very pretty fish.


                     

BUT, THE SEA LIONS WERE INSANE!!!! There were tons of them. At one point, we had to leave one area because the alpha bull decided to patrol the water and he is something to be feared. But the youngsters were incredibly curious. More than cameras, they seem enamored with GoPro and wanted to take a sample. Food maybe? They came so close, it was amazing staring into their eyes. They seemed as curious about us as we were about them.  If I died right then, I would have felt complete and would have died happy.




Well, "hi there"
Let me look a little closer

 . . .just a little bit closer
Doesn't smell like fish
Doesn't taste like fish either
BTW . . .whiskers and teeth tickle
Did I do that?
















The snorkel ended too soon and we set sail for Post Office Bay. This is how passing seamen used to send messages. We dropped off a few postcards to us . . .and to some friends and family . . .who knows when they will arrive. We picked up a postcard for Houston, which we will deliver sometime in the next few months (excuse for a weekend getaway). And we  picked up a postcard from Honolulu which we will deliver in a few weeks. How incredibly cool. We'll knock on a stranger's door, but have similar stories to share. I hope we make new friends.

Then, we had a chance for a relaxing kayak before more snorkeling where we saw more cool fish, but had the amazing opportunity to swim with Giant Green Sea Turtles. They weren't curious, but not afraid. I swear we had a moment staring into each other's eyes. They are so incredibly peaceful and gentle.  I think I was as close to looking at the soul of heaven as anyone can get  to on earth. This day was absolutely perfect!!!!